Rediscovering Chianti’s Forgotten Past
Deep beneath the Tuscan hamlet of Cetamura del Chianti, a 2,000‑year‑old cache of grape seeds lay dormant in oxygen‑poor mud. The seeds were remarkably preserved, allowing a research team from the University of York to extract DNA and rewrite the long‑held belief that Chianti has always been a red‑wine stronghold.
A Genetic Time Capsule
The scholars examined eighty seeds spanning a period from 300 BCE to 300 CE. This collection provides the most extensive genetic snapshot of ancient vines ever recorded from a single archaeological site. The analysis revealed that the majority of the seeds belonged to a single clone, a white‑grape variety cultivated continuously by the Etruscans and later adopted by the Romans.
White Grapes Dominated the Landscape
DNA markers unmistakably identified the ancient cultivar as a white grape, a stark contrast to today’s fame of the robust, red Sangiovese that defines modern Chianti. While contemporary vineyards still grow a few white varieties, the evidence shows that for centuries the region’s output was overwhelmingly white. Moreover, some seeds displayed morphologies linked to wild grapes, suggesting that locals also gathered uncultivated fruit alongside their cultivated vines.
The Roman Trade Network’s Imprint
Following the Roman conquest of Cetamura, the seed assemblage suddenly includes new grape types, likely imported from other corners of the empire. The dominant white clone shows a close genetic relationship to two ancient seeds previously uncovered in southern France, hinting at a far‑reaching Roman wine‑distribution system that aimed to standardise viticulture across its territories.
Connections to Living Relatives
One seed belongs to a grape family still grown in Central and Eastern Europe. Its nearest living relative is a rare Hungarian variety, Baratcsuha szurke. Intriguingly, the same lineage links directly to a 400‑year‑old vine in Maribor, Slovenia, which holds the title of the world’s oldest continuously fruit‑bearing grapevine. According to archaeologist Nathan Wales, tasting wines from these surviving lineages offers a literal sip of Roman‑era flavor.
Why This Matters
The discovery reshapes our understanding of Chianti’s heritage, showing that the region’s identity has evolved dramatically over millennia. It also underscores the resilience of ancient grape lineages, capable of surviving wars, climate shifts, and changing consumer tastes. As modern winemakers experiment with heritage varieties, the ancient white clone may inspire new blends that pay homage to Chianti’s original character.
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Source: https://scientias.nl/chianti-was-eeuwenlang-witte-wijn-tot-de-romeinen-kwamen/